Finely chop a couple strands of pickled samphire*, a small gherkin or two, 1 tbsp capers, and parsley to make 1/4 cup. Place in a small mixing bowl along with 4 tbsp mayonnaise and a squeeze of lemon juice. Season with pepper.

* Put 45ml vinegar, 45ml sugar and 90ml water in a small pan, bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then take off the heat and leave to cool. Put 90g samphire in a clean jar, pour the brine over the top, then seal and leave to infuse for 48 hours in the fridge.