Bring 1.5 litres fish stock to a boil, and add the carcasses of around 30 raw langoustine tails (set aside the meat). Simmer for about 30 minutes. Strain and return to the pot on a simmer. Stir in a good pinch of saffron threads, finely milled in a mortar and pestle.

Add 15g butter and 1 tbsp olive oil to a heavy-based pan on medium heat to melt the butter. Add 1 onion and 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped, softening without colouring (about 5 minutes).

Add 250g carnaroli or arborio rice, stir to coat, and toast lightly. Add 80 ml white wine, stir, and let the wine evaporate completely until the onions and rice are nearly dry.

Start adding the stock, a ladleful or two at a time, stirring and scraping the rice from the bottom of the pan. When each addition of stock has almost evaporated, add the next ladleful.

After about 15 minutes, the risotto will be nearly ready when the grains are soft but still a little bit al dente. Turn down the heat and stir in the langoustine tails for about 1 minute till just opaque. Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and allow the risotto to rest for a minute or two. Sprinkle in some finely chopped parsley and add a ladleful of stock if the risotto is not loose enough before serving.

Serves 3 as a main course or 5 as a starter.