This dish is often to be found on the menu at the excellent St John Restaurant in London. I’m lucky enough to be able to find peeled brown shrimp at my local farmer’s market – otherwise, beware. Brown shrimp can be quite fiddly to peel! But the lovely concentrated flavours of the brown shrimp (or crevette grise in French) makes it worth the effort.

Finely shred 400g white cabbage (I used the pointed Spring variety) and place in a salad bowl, along with 130g peeled brown shrimp. In a small bowl mix together the juice of 1 lemon, 100ml olive oil, 1tsp finely chopped capers, 50g lightly chopped chervil, and some sea salt and pepper. Whisk together and mix well into the cabbage. 

Serves 4 as a starter.